Used car buying checklist
Go through this before you view, while you look the car over, and before you pay. It works for any make and model; our model guides add the faults to look for on specific cars.
Written by the C4R team from GOV.UK, DVSA and DVLA guidance. Checked 2026-10-13.
Before you go to see it
- Check the MOT history with the registration number. Look for repeat advisories (the same corrosion, tyre or suspension note year after year) and mileage that goes down or jumps. How to read an MOT history
- Check the tax status, MOT expiry date and date of first registration on the GOV.UK vehicle enquiry service, and that the make, model and colour match the advert.
- Check for open safety recalls on GOV.UK and ask whether recall work has been done.
- Work out what it will cost to tax, fuel and run each year, not just the asking price. Car running costs calculator
- If you drive into London or a clean air zone, check the car meets the emissions standard. ULEZ checker
- Get an insurance quote for the exact car before you travel; it can change your mind about an engine or trim.
- Consider a paid vehicle history check for outstanding finance, an insurance write-off record or a stolen marker. These do not appear in the MOT history.
- Read the buying guide for the model: which engines and gearboxes have known faults, and what to ask about. Model buying guides
Check the paperwork
- View the car at the address on the V5C logbook (a private seller's home or a dealer's premises), in daylight.
- The V5C should be the original, in the seller's name, and show the same registration, colour and engine size as the car.
- Match the VIN on the V5C with the VIN on the car: usually stamped at the base of the windscreen and on a plate in a door shut or under the bonnet.
- Ask for the service history: stamps or invoices, with dates and mileages that line up with the MOT history.
- Check when the cambelt (timing belt) was last changed if the engine has one; it is one of the most expensive jobs to be caught out by.
- If the car is a declared write-off (Category S or N), the seller should tell you. It can be legal and repaired, but it affects value and insurance.
Look over the car
- Walk round it: uneven panel gaps, paint that does not quite match, or overspray on rubber seals can mean accident repairs.
- Look for rust on sills, wheel arches, the boot floor and subframes, especially on older cars.
- Tyres must have at least 1.6 mm of tread across the central three-quarters of the tread, all the way round. Uneven wear on one edge can point to alignment or suspension problems.
- Check under the oil filler cap and on the dipstick: oil should be at the right level; a creamy residue can be a warning sign.
- Look under the car and in the engine bay for fresh leaks of oil, coolant or brake fluid.
- Try every electric item: windows, mirrors, central locking, lights, wipers, heated seats, air conditioning (it should blow cold), infotainment and parking sensors.
- Check both keys work and that the locking wheel nut key is there if the wheels need one.
Start it from cold
- Ask the seller not to run the engine before you arrive, and feel the bonnet when you get there.
- Warning lights should come on with the ignition and go out once the engine starts.
- Listen for rattles in the first few seconds (timing chain wear on some engines) and look for smoke from the exhaust.
On the test drive
- Make sure you are insured to drive it before you set off.
- Drive at town and faster speeds. The car should go straight, and brake straight without pulling or juddering.
- Manual: the clutch should bite smoothly and not too high; gears should go in without crunching. Automatic: shifts should be smooth, with no slipping, flaring or harsh changes.
- Listen for knocks over bumps (suspension), whining (wheel bearings or gearbox) and clunks on full lock (CV joints).
- After the drive, look again for warning lights and leaks, and check the temperature gauge stayed steady.
Before you pay
- Never pay a deposit for a car you have not seen in person.
- Pay by bank transfer or another traceable method once you have checked the car and the V5C; avoid carrying large amounts of cash.
- Get a receipt with the date, price, registration, VIN, and both your and the seller's names and addresses.
- Be wary if the seller wants to meet somewhere other than their home or premises, rushes you, or the price is well below similar cars.
After you buy
- Tax the car before you drive it away: vehicle tax does not pass to a new keeper. Road tax calculator
- Insure the car from the moment you drive it.
- Keep the new keeper slip (V5C/2) from the logbook; the seller tells DVLA about the sale and your new V5C arrives by post.
Your rights: dealer or private seller
- Buying from a dealer (a trader), the Consumer Rights Act 2015 says the car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. Within 30 days you can usually reject a faulty car for a refund; after that the dealer gets a chance to repair or replace it.
- Buying privately, the car must be as described and the seller must have the right to sell it, but there is no satisfactory-quality promise, so your own checks matter more.
- C4R is free for private sellers and dealers alike, so both sell side by side: each advert shows who is selling, so you know which rules apply.
Model buying guides: common problems and MOT failures